The Best of Argentina and Chile

Round 3 …

Buenos Aires:

• Tango in the Park – Tango is all over Buenos Aires so you won´t miss it, but there are many options for soaking up the excitement. You can see street performers in the park, go to a cena show, or watch an intimate dance at a cafe. We did them all and liked them all, but we really enjoyed the atmosphere of watching it in the park. Head to San Telmo on Sundays to catch a show.
• The Beef – It`s mouthwatering (even for non-beef eaters) and parrillas are everywhere. Our favorite cut was asado de tira and our favorite parilla was DesNivel in San Telmo (a packed locals spot that is dirt cheap and has excellent traditional food).
• San Telmo Antique Fair – Only on Sunday, but worth the wait. It`s a lively street scene that has more to do with socializing and watching the street performers than antiques. Try to catch a tango show as well.
• Futbol – Don`t miss it. It`s a blast. We heard the Boca Jrs. games are classic fun, but we went to River stadium for a national game against Bolivia. Pick up a jersey beforehand if you want to blend with the crowd and best to go with a tour agency to avoid lots of confusion and crowds.
• Olsen – For a trendy night on the town, this Palermo eatery was a little taste of NYC in BA (but at better prices!). The best part was sampling the delicious drinks. Sitting at the bar also allows you test out your Spanish skills on the bartenders…
• Shopping – You won´t be able to get enough of it. The porteños are definitely trendy and the clothes are good value so try to come with some spending cash. We liked Santa Fe street, Palermo, and Florida streets the best.

Mendoza:

• Wine tasting in Lujan de Cuyo – Most people do bike tours in Maipu, but if you`re into wine and you want to do it right, rent a car, make reservations at wineries (during the week), and do it yourself. First, go for a tasting at Vines of Mendoza and get information about the best wines and wineries. We liked the tours at Septima and Carlos Pulenta the best. (Skip the La Rural museum unless you don`t know the first thing about wine.)
• Tablao for a Lomito Completo – Did you see that picture of the lomito sandwich we posted a while back? This is where it´s from. If you don´t make it to Mendoza, get one somewhere else because they are oh so good.
• Hostel Independencia – We liked this big hostel with a central location. The breakfast was generous and the weekly bbq was also good fun and food.

Other stuff in Argentina:

• Iguazu Falls – Don`t mean to diminish this one by putting it in the “other stuff” category because it was one of our favorite sites on the trip. Give yourself 2 days to see the whole thing. Start with the Brazilian side for an overview of the falls and then go to the Argentinian side to get up close. Both sides have unique views, so its worth it for the cheap park tickets… and somehow the falls never get boring because they are just so big!
• Andesmar – Our favorite bus company in Argentina, with a good website.
• Lomo Sandwiches – A little slice of heaven stuffed between 2 pieces of bread. We actually blogged about this one earlier.

Central Chile:

• La Casa Roja – We loved this hostel in Santiago. It was big, had a beautiful kitchen, tv room, and numerous lounge areas, not to mention sparkling bathrooms and a pool with a swim-up bar!
• Valparaiso – Worth the detour from Santiago, this small coastal town is colorful and quaint and boasts some pretty cool history and really good seafood. Pick up a copy of Isabel Allende´s Daughter of Fortune before you go.
• Los Porteños – Really good local seafood spot. Famous for thier seafood soups and chowders.
• Le Filou de Montpelier – A tiny simple place between Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion, this french restaurant serves only a set daily menu. It was one of the best meals we had and at a pretty good price.
• The bus ride from Mendoza to Santiago – Do this one during the day because the views as you pass through the Andes are spectacular.

Other stuff in Chile:

• Empanadas- Sometimes more like a calzone, but usually always a really good option for a cheap meal.
• Kalabaza – Really good cafe in Puerto Montt. Take advantage of the set menu for a deal.

Patagonia:

• Torres del Paine National Park (Chile) – The highlight of Patagonia, this park boasts some of the most dramatic scenery in the world. 3-5 days (or more) is ideal here if you want time to explore and enjoy. The W features the parks most famous spots and while all the sections of it are amazingly cool, we especially loved the French Valley for its 360 degree views and interesting trail. Be prepared for extreme weather – the sun can be just as deadly as the wind.
• Erratic Rock Hostel – Probably our favorite hostel on the trip, this is place is small and cozy and a good hub for before and after trips to the park. Daily baked goods and info talk are pluses too.
• El Calafate and Perito Moreno Glaciar (Argentina) – More touristy than Puerto Natales, but the place to go for outdoor gear shopping and trips to glaciars. Perito Moreno is the most dynamic and worth staring at for a while.
• Ushuaia (Argentina) – The city at the end of the world. It´s a pretty cool town with dramatic scenery and the view from Glaciar Martial is worth the trip.
• Bodegon Fueguino – Great local restaurant in Ushuaia that features small plates and specializes in lamb.

General tips…

• We forgot this one in past summaries, but wanted to send a notice to future SA travellers that most places down here take their weekends seriously. Everything is usually closed on Sundays and in many places closed early on Saturday as well. That goes for restaurants, stores, wineries, museums, churches, sometimes tours, etc. Try to avoid making your only day to visit a town Sunday (if you plan on visiting any sights) and be sure to check hours before heading anywhere on the weekends because it will likely be closed. (Internet cafes are usually an exception, even on Christmas!)
• To add to the inconvenience, the Argentine schedule is classic craziness. They take their siestas seriously, often shutting down between 1-4 everyday and they love their nightlife. The prime dinner rush is at 10:30, meaning many restaurants are still not open by 7pm. Clubbing starts between 1-2am, so bring some sleeping pills because you will definitely need to adjust your internal clock here! (Some exceptions in tourist locations during high season, but just be prepared).
• Reservations in high season a must. Although you can usually always find a place to stay, the best places will be booked. Book buses and flights at least a little bit in advance if you want to stick to your schedule.
• Prices for flights vary a lot here unlike the states. If you don´t like a price, just keep checking because it may change daily or hourly.
• Ahh the buses. Heaven after Bolivia. These things are equiped and the cama class is really quite comfortable. For the long journeys, definitely enjoy the luxury.

So that´s the spiel on Argentina and Chile. Hope that helps. As always, drop us a line if you have more questions…

Peru and Bolivia Highlights

OK so this one is well overdue, but we thought still worth it…

Cusco and the Sacred Valley:

• Machu Picchu/Lares Trek with SAS – This one is of course a classic, but we also have to recommend doing a trek in the area. Most people we know did one of the classic alternative treks and loved it. There are a number to choose from based on your interests, but we were really happy with the Lares Valley and SAS did a great job. The day at Machu Picchu was the most tiring part, so don`t think you can`t do the trek, you can. You have to climb Wayna Picchu when you get there for the best views.
• Jack´s Cafe – Order yourself a ¨gordo¨ and enjoy. Perfect after coming back from a Sacred Valley trek.
• Tratamundo Cafe – On the second floor of the South side of the plaza, this place has great views of the Cathedral and serves up devine sandwiches and cafes…yum.
• Korikancha and the Convent of Santo Domingo – Our favorite sight in Cusco and one of the most impressive Inca structures.
• Pisaq – Our favorite sight in the Sacred Valley (aside from Machu Picchu). There are a number of temples to see, but not are all worth the effort. Do this one first or make sure to leave time because it´s big and worth the time.
• San Blas Neighborhood – The best place to stay in Cusco, without a doubt.
• Alpaca gear – You`ll need it to keep warm and it`s cheap!

Lake Titicaca:

• Reed Islands – It only takes a few hours but they are one of the most unique places we went.
• Quinoa Soup – The lake is almost like the heartland of the Andean experience and it wouldn´t be complete without trying some quinoa soup. Delicious.

Other stuff in Peru:

• Segundo Muelle in Lima – Considered one of the best cebicherias in Peru and it doesn´t disapoint. Absolutely worth going to if you go through Lima.
• Cruz del Sur – Our favorite bus company in Peru, bingo included.
• Monasterio de Santa Catalina in Arequipa – Awesome convent in Arequipa worth wandering around in for hours.
• Fez – Really good falafel house in Arequipa.
• Chicha morena – Special juice made from purple corn and fruit juices.
• Pisco sours – It´s not a trip to Peru if you don´t try one of these. Refreshing and delicious.
• Dunkelvolk – Cool Peruvian surf brand.

La Paz and around:

• Salteña tasting – Heaven in a little pastry. Our favorite place was Pacena La Salteña (get tumbo juice as well).
• Wagamama (not the UK chain) – Get your sushi fix here since we know you´re probably craving it about now.
• Coca museum – Small, but packs a punch. Really interesting museum with cafe for tasting coca products.
• Adventure Brew Hostel – One our favorites so far, this place was big and fun with most of the amenities you could ask for at a cheap price. The free beer every day helped!
• Biking World´s Most Dangerous Road – As if the bragging rights aren´t enough of an incentive, it´s actually a kick ass ride and totally worth whatever you pay. We went with Gravity Assisted and loved ém.

The Jungle:

• Pampas tour - This is a good intro to the jungle with the most opps for viewing wildlife. Whatever you do, the jungle is fun and you get to hang out in hammocks a lot. Getting to Rurrenabaque is an adventure though, so good luck with that one.
• Moskito bar – Good bar in Rurrenabaque with damn good caipirinhas.
• Casa de Campo – Really good restaurant in Rurre with patio seating at someone`s house. The couple cooks everything you order fresh.

Eastern and Southern Bolivia:

• Southwest Circuit and Salar de Uyuni – This was one of the true highlights of our trip. Surreal scenery for three days on a four wheel drive trip you won`t forget. It gets cold, so bring your alpaca purchases along. A definite must see!
• Minuteman pizza – Excellent pizza place in Uyuni that´s warm and cozy and totally yummy.
• Sucre – The white city. This one actually lives up to its billing a bit better than Arequipa in Peru and is worth the one or two day stop when travelling between Uyuni and La Paz.
• Convento de San Felipe Meri - You have to knock on the door to get in, but the courtyard is gorgeous and head to the roof for a view you´ll never forget.
• Para ti chocolates – Divine!

General tips…

• These countries are cheap!! So soak it up while you can…
• Prepare yourself for some ugly bus rides. The system in Peru is pretty good with tourist buses, but there is no real system in Bolivia (meaning lots of random stops and locals crowding on along the way).
• Everyone says everywhere in South America is dangerous, but it`s all exaggerated. Watch your bag at all times, but don`t be scared because its not nearly how it sounds.
• Look up the expected temperatures before you come. It`s cold here, even on the coast. Come prepared.
• Girls, bring toilet paper with you everywhere and get used to peeing behind rocks.
• They speak a little more English here and are more accustomed to tourism, so no problem if you don`t speak the language. No need to book ahead either, you can do almost everything when you arrive (except Cusco).

So that´s the quick rundown on what we liked most in Peru and Bolivia. If you have other questions about the area then drop us a line and we´ll answer what we can.

Got a package coming to Argentina?

Good luck getting it out of customs!!

Luckily, I have first-hand experience and can vouch for how much fun it is. It all begins with a 2 hr bus ride to Ezeiza Airport (or you can opt for the more expensive cab), once you find the terminal de cargas, navigate through the buildings to the customs building (dock B)…and don`t forget to get certified first or you`ll have to go back and do it all again!

Then, once you get to the offices with all your paperwork and original passport, WAIT to be helped, but don`t ask for assistance. Once allowed to enter pretend not to speak any Spanish so they take pity on you and follow the directions to offices: 1,2,cargo,2,3,2,1,2,3,cargo. Hopefully after 10 stamps, you`ll get your goods with only having to pay ¨storage fees.¨ The unlucky ones may have to pay more ¨taxes¨ or get more stamps from other offices in different buildings…

here is a map in case you find it helpful:

Finally, you can sleep on the 2hr bus ride back to the city…

My advice would be don`t get anything sent to Argentina unless it`s absolutely necessary…and if it is, embrace the Argentine way. Although curiously strange, it is definitely amusing. Good luck!!!

Ecuador Highlights and Tips

Now that we´ve officially departed Ecuador and are on our way through Peru, we wanted to share some of our advice from our 5 weeks there for any of you who are planning or hoping to visit Ecuador in the future…

Highlights in and around Quito:

• Simon Bolivar language school – Learning some Spanish will give you at least a clue about what´s going on around you. This school is well established, has great teachers and was just a ton of fun. We highly recommend it.
• Homestays – We loved our family and it was great for our Spanish. Everyone else we know also loved it. If you have the chance, its a great experience. Even if only for one week, its still worth it.
• Restaurants – Marabel and La Naranjilla Mechanica (just go, you´ll love them). We also tryed a restaurant named Sake for sushi and thought it wasn´t really worth it.
• Salsa! – They love it and it´s a huge part of the culture, so you have to go at least once or twice. Our favorite salsa club is Seserìbo, it´s cozy, friendly, and there are always some excellent Salsa dancers there for you to watch.
• Around the city – walk around the old town and visit La Compañia church and take a ride up the Telferiqo cable car for a great view of the city. The museums aren´t much to rave about, but Casa de Cultura has some interesting stuff on the development of Ecuador and you should definitely check out some Guayasamin paintings, they are great. At the end of the day there isn´t tons of stuff to do in Quito, so if you aren´t doing schooling then 2-3 days is sufficient.
• Around Quito – The mitad del mundo is fun if you´ve never been before, but skip the monument and just check out the museum. More importantly, if you have time, take trips to Mindo and Otavalo.
• Food and Drink – Canelaso, llapingachos and all the fruit juices (especially mora and guanabana). Yum!
• Thermal Baths – These are a real treat if you can make it to one. We did it in Baños, but its also possible in a town called Papallata closer to Quito.

Elsewhere in Ecuador:

• Cuenca – Frankly, we would send you here before Quito and for longer. This is really a beautiful town for strolling and admiring architecture. National Park Cajas is a great spot to get out there and see some unique mountain scenery while gasping for air in the freezing cold! There is an excellent bar/hostel called El Cafecito which is a good place to stay if you don´t mind a bit more noise and excitement, otherwise just come by for a drink and a snack one night. In the middle of the block next to El Cafecito there is a great Columbian restaurant called Moliendo Cafe. Great food and very cheap.
• Vilcabamba – If you make your way to Vilcabamba then Izcayluma is a very relaxing and accomodating place to stay. It´s probably the most full featured hostel we´ve been too and includes nice rooms, a good restaurant, bar with games such as pool and ping pong, a pool open 24hrs a day, and even some spa services.

Good things to know before you go…

• They say its a third-world country, but don´t be surprised that everywhere you go will have toilets and modern accomodations (hot running water is another story!)
• Eventhough its on the equator much of the sites are in the mountains and thus have a relatively cool climate so bring layers and plan to hit the coast “on season”
• Although tourism is growing here, they still don´t speak a lot of English, so learn some Spanish
• The shopping is not very good here. They mostly sell knock-offs and out-of-date American brand clothing, so if possible wait to buy clothes or bring what you need (If needed, Cuenca has the best selection, although the same prices as in the US). Electronics are another story. The cameras and other goods are pretty cheap here, so if you need one it´ll probably be cheaper.
• Bring a money checking pen and leave the $100 bills at home. They have a substantial counterfeit money business here, so everyone checks their bills (even the $5s). Unless you know the tricks for deciphering the difference, then coming prepared could be handy.
• The bus system is relatively convenient here, but the only catch is that they are often overcrowded. You can get a ticket with an assigned seat for most buses, but arrive to the station early and try to sit in a window seat. Locals board the bus for shorter rides throughout the journey and often crowd the aisles. Good public transportation for them, but can be uncomfortable for you.
• Expect to meet lots of Germans!!

That´s our topline summary of recommendations, but of course I am diligently tracking our travels, so if you´re planning a trip and want more details, just ask. You know we love to blab about this stuff. We have tons more info on places to stay and eat and things to do that we´d recommend. We also have friends here that would love to show you around if you´re up for it.

We hope you all make it to Ecuador one day and better yet if you return with us the next time we go!

Travel Tip #23

(No, you haven´t missed the other 22, I just like picking random numbers =)

Big fat multi-country/full continent books suck and individual country/city books rock. When doing long trips involving long distances and lots of detinations you need as much info as possible and the “fatty” books as I like to call them really have pretty sparce info which doesn´t really help you decide what to do at all. So skip the big books and buy the smaller books on each individual country. Ideally keeping 2 at a time, one for your current country and one for your next country, then when you leave a country you can just sell/trade the old book and pick up a new one for your next destination.

Sometimes you learn the hard way.